NemonteNenquimostoodunderharshflorescentlightsinacrowdedcourtroominPuyo,Ecuador.Shewaswearingredfacepaintandacrownoffeathers.Elderscarryingspearsandlargeleavesstoodbesideher.Judgessatatatableinfrontofthem,withlawyersoneither side.
NenquimoisamemberoftheWaoranination.Forcenturies,theWaoranihavelivedintherainforestsofEcuador.Now,in2019,theyhadjourneyedtothecityofPuyotofightfortheirculture.Withouttheirpermission,theEcuadorangovernmenthaddivideduptheWaorani’sland.Theywantedtoauctionitofftooilcompanieswhowoulddrill there.
![](/nationalgeographic/adventurer_january_february_2021/protector_of_the_amazon_2/953410/waorani.480_0_1.png)
NemonteNenquimoisaleaderoftheWaorani nation.
![](/nationalgeographic/adventurer_january_february_2021/protector_of_the_amazon_2/953413/NGX121_EE_18.480_0_1.jpg)
NemonteNenquimoraisesherfistinasignofdefianceatthestartofthecourthearingin Ecuador.
TheWaoranifoughtback.Nenquimohelpedhertribefilealawsuitagainstthegovernmenttostoptheauctionoftheirancestralhome.TheWaorani’slawyershadpresentedtheircase.Now,thejudgeswerereadytoannouncetheirdecision.Nemontetookadeepbreath.Shesqueezedhergrandmother’shand.Thejudgebeganto speak.
ARainforestHome
TheWaoraninationareabout
5,000indigenouspeoplewholiveon2.5 millionacresinsomeofthemostbiologicallydiverserainforestontheplanet.MostoftheirlandisinthecountryofEcuador,whichhasthehighestnumberofspeciesbyareaofanyotherplaceonEarth.Morethan1,500speciesofbird,
300speciesofmammal,andmorethan840 speciesofreptilemaketheirhomeintheforestsof Ecuador.
“Ourculturecomesfromtheforest,”Nenquimosays.“Theforestteachesushowtolive,andourcultureteachesushowtoprotecttheforest.”Ashunter-gatherers,theWaorani’slivesareentwinedwiththerainforest.Weaponsforhunting,suchasspears,aremadefromthewoodofpeachpalmtrees.Traditionalhutsaremadeofpalmleavesandtreetrunks.Palmfibersarewoveninto baskets.
![](/nationalgeographic/adventurer_january_february_2021/protector_of_the_amazon_2/953417/Waorani_map.480_0_1.jpg)
Waorani Territory
Amazon
Rainforest
Equator
Atlantic
Ocean
Pacific
Ocean
Ecuador
South
America
500 kilometers
500 miles
![](/nationalgeographic/adventurer_january_february_2021/protector_of_the_amazon_2/953414/globe.480_0_1.png)
South
America
North
America
![](/nationalgeographic/adventurer_january_february_2021/protector_of_the_amazon_2/953418/NGX0121_EE_19.640_0_1.jpg)
TheWaoraniliveintheAmazon rainforest.
![](/nationalgeographic/adventurer_january_february_2021/protector_of_the_amazon_2/953421/bug.256_0_1.png)
TheWaoranihavealwaysfoughtoffinvaderstotheirland,asfarbackastheIncaempire.Theykepttheirdistancefromstrangers.TheWaoranididnothavesignificantcontactwiththeoutsideworlduntil1958whenanAmericanmissionarynamedRachelSaintmadepeacefulcontactwiththemforthefirst time.
Oncecontactwasestablished,somethingwasdiscovered:oil.Namely,depositsofpetroleuminthegroundunderWaoraniterritory.Theoilwasvaluableandtogetatit,oilcompaniesranroadsandpipelinesintoWaoranilandfor50years.Treeswerecutdown,destroyingecosystemsandanimalhabitats.Forthemostpart,theoilcompaniesdidthiswithoutpermissionfromthe Waorani.
![](/nationalgeographic/adventurer_january_february_2021/protector_of_the_amazon_2/980502/cloudinary_2_jane_20goodall_20id_20chimps.960_0_1.jpg)